Quick Answer
A dryer that needs two or more cycles to properly dry clothes is usually caused by one of six faults: a blocked lint vent restricting airflow, an overloaded drum, a failing heating element that's only partially working, a faulty thermostat cutting heat early, worn door seals letting heat escape, or a moisture sensor that's dirty or miscalibrated.
A blocked vent is both the most common cause and a genuine fire risk — it should be the very first thing checked, before assuming the dryer itself is faulty.
A dryer that runs, gets warm, and produces some drying — just not enough — is a different problem to a dryer with no heat at all. It's easy to just run a second cycle and move on, but a dryer needing multiple cycles is telling you it's working harder than it should, which usually means one specific, fixable fault rather than the dryer simply 'wearing out'.
Here are the six causes Melbourne technicians see most, in the order worth checking. If your dryer has no heat at all rather than just weak drying, see our separate guide on a dryer not heating.
Check the Vent First
A blocked or crushed external vent duct restricts the airflow the dryer needs to carry moisture out of the drum. Even a partial blockage — not a full block — is enough to noticeably extend drying time without stopping heat altogether. Check the external wall vent flap while the dryer runs; it should swing open with strong, steady airflow. Lint duct cleaning is a normal homeowner-safe task and one of the most effective fixes for this exact complaint.
The Other Five Causes
- Overloaded drum — clothes need room to tumble freely; overfilling restricts airflow around each item
- Heating element partially failed — still produces some heat, just not enough to dry efficiently (different from a fully failed element, which produces no heat at all)
- Faulty thermostat — cuts heat earlier than it should, before the load is actually dry
- Worn door seal — lets heated air escape around the door instead of staying in the drum
- Dirty or miscalibrated moisture sensor — the dryer can't accurately tell when clothes are dry, so it either stops too early or runs inefficiently
Load Size and Fabric Type Matter More Than People Expect
Before assuming a fault, it's worth ruling out load composition: mixed loads of thick towels and light synthetics dry unevenly because the sensor reads overall moisture, not each item individually — the thin items can trigger a 'dry' reading while towels are still damp. Similarly, a genuinely oversized load (more than the manufacturer's rated capacity) will need multiple cycles on a perfectly healthy dryer. If reducing load size and separating fabric types doesn't fix it, the fault is more likely mechanical.
Why This Shouldn't Be Left Too Long
Every extra cycle costs additional electricity or gas, and a lint duct blockage specifically is a recognised fire risk that gets worse the longer it's left uncleaned. If clearing the vent and checking load size doesn't resolve it, our dryer repair technicians can test the heating element, thermostat and moisture sensor in a single visit to find the actual cause.
What's Safe to Check Yourself vs When to Call a Pro
Safe to Check Yourself
- Check the external vent flap swings open with strong airflow while the dryer runs
- Clean the lint filter before every load — a full filter alone can extend drying time
- Reduce load size to the manufacturer's rated capacity and re-test
- Separate thick items (towels, denim) from thin synthetics in the same load
- Check the door seal for visible gaps, cracks or heat escaping around the edge while running
Always Call a Licensed Technician
- Testing and replacing a partially failed heating element
- Testing and replacing a faulty thermostat
- Cleaning or clearing an internal duct blockage beyond the accessible external vent
- Calibrating or replacing a faulty moisture sensor
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it normal for towels to always need an extra cycle?▼
Thick towels do take longer than lighter fabrics, but they shouldn't need a full second cycle on a properly functioning dryer with a clear vent and a reasonably sized load. If they consistently do, it's worth checking the vent and load size before assuming it's just the fabric.
How do I know if it's the vent or the heating element?▼
A blocked vent usually comes with weak or hot, stale-smelling air at the outside vent flap and a warmer-than-usual laundry area. A failing heating element more often shows as heat that feels noticeably weaker at the very start of the cycle even with a completely clear vent.
How often should I clean the dryer vent duct?▼
At least once a year for typical household use, more often for larger households or if the duct run is long. A dryer that's started needing extra cycles is itself a sign the vent may be due for cleaning.
Can overloading really cause this, or is it just the machine?▼
Yes — genuinely. Manufacturer capacity ratings account for the airflow needed around each item; consistently loading above capacity restricts that airflow and extends drying time even in a fault-free dryer.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that needs multiple cycles?▼
A vent clean is a low-cost fix, often resolved without needing a part. A heating element or thermostat replacement typically falls between $150 and $350 depending on the brand and part — we quote the exact cost after diagnosis.
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Dishank Patel
Lead Technician & Founder · DP Electric Melbourne
Dishank Patel has over 10 years of hands-on experience repairing household appliances across Melbourne's eastern suburbs. He holds all required Victorian electrical and gas licensing and has personally repaired thousands of appliances across brands including Bosch, Miele, LG, Samsung, and Fisher & Paykel.